Cordoba has been on my checklist of locations to go to for some time, having missed out on it on earlier journeys to Andalusia. The principle factor I wished to see in Córdoba was the well-known Mezquita-Cathedral with its distinctive purple and white arches, considered one of three UNESCO World Heritage websites yow will discover on this traditionally essential Spanish metropolis. I used to be additionally trying ahead to attempting the distinctive Cordoba delicacies – Right here’s my information on travelling solo in Cordoba and what you’ll be able to see, eat and discover on a weekend journey.
On the lookout for different cities I visited on this Andalusia journey? Take a look at my posts on Seville and Cadiz.
How one can get to Cordoba
By prepare
The prepare journey from Seville’s Santa Justa Station to Cordoba takes about 45 minutes, which implies you might do a day journey from Seville, however I feel no less than 2 days/1 night time in Cordoba is good to get a greater really feel of the town. I stayed in Cordoba for 2 nights so I had a bit extra leisure time general.
In case you are coming in from Madrid, the excessive pace rail takes just below 2 hours between Madrid’s Atocha station to Cordoba Station.
The Cordoba prepare station is alongside Avenida de America and is about 15-20 minutes stroll away from each the Centro and Outdated City areas.
My prepare ticket from Cordoba to Seville price about 22 Euros. Learn extra about my Spain journey planning right here.
Map of Cordoba
Historic Centre of Cordoba
The outdated city is considered one of Cordoba’s 3 UNESCO heritage websites and beautiful to discover on foot. Based by the Romans, you’ll discover remnants of their presence right here together with the Andalusian fashion Mudejar-Christian structure and the presence of the outdated Jewish quarter.
Mezquita Cathedral (Mosque Cathedral)
The principle purpose individuals come to Cordoba is to see the UNESCO Heritage website Mezquita Cathedral (Mosque Cathedral) and its uncommon fusion of architectural kinds. Mudejar structure could be discovered all through Andalusia, however the Mosque-Cathedral is the among the finest examples of this mishmash of cultures and the way conquering empires actually constructed on prime of one another which I personally discover fascinating.
This website was most well-known as a lavish mosque within the ninth century, although extra digging has proven that this website was predated by a Visigoth temple. When the Christians took over within the twelfth century, they appreciated the unique mosque sufficient to maintain a number of it, however determined to construct a Renaissance fashion church smack in the midst of the prayer halls. It’s actually a bit of weird strolling via the compound and discovering a totally completely different architectural area in just some steps.
Take your time to search for and admire the intricate structure. This specific attraction is crowded all day lengthy, although much less so within the mornings. There are some plaques to learn across the area however if you need extra historic info, I recommend taking a tour with a information.
The doorway space is especially crowded and darkish as a result of everyone seems to be wowed after they first enter the area, so don’t rush to take your photographs – for higher photos of the arches the place there is a little more mild, transfer additional contained in the compound.
Bell Tower Climb
In addition to shopping for the ticket to enter the Mezquita Cathedral, I additionally opted to do the Bell Tower climb. This was the previous minaret that the Muslims used for prayer calls, and you’ll even see bits of the unique dome contained in the tower as you ascend, however like Seville’s Giralda, it was reworked right into a bell tower after the Christians took over.
This tower climb go to is timed with a 20pax cap per group. There are 3 completely different ranges of the tower {that a} guard offers you entry to and the entire go to takes about half-hour, however no explanations or tales are given – I purchased my tower climb ticket half-hour earlier than entry into the primary Mosque Cathedral so I may go straight in after the climb.
I like to recommend doing this tower climb on a pleasant day and also you’ll have superb views of the encircling countryside. I additionally appreciated seeing the exterior architectural options of the Mosque Cathedral earlier than heading inside. It’s a little bit of a climb up the steps, however I feel the views are nicely value it.
Customer information: Get your tickets on the Mezquita Cathedral web site – I like to recommend shopping for on-line so that you don’t need to queue on the door, and you’ll simply scan your QR code. Common tickets price 11 Euros whereas the Bell Tower is a separate 3 Euros. If you wish to see the constructing by night time, you are able to do the Soul of Cordoba which incorporates some kind of mild projection present, however apparently you’re not allowed to take photos of that. Extra about tickets right here. Most days its open from 10am to 7pm and there’s apparently free entry from 8-920am, however examine opening instances earlier than you go because it’s nonetheless a working church.
Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Fortress of the Christian Kings)
Whereas the Mezquita-Cathedral is Cordoba’s most well-known constructing, the town can be residence to its personal citadel referred to as Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, or Fortress of the Christian Kings. This citadel was a favoured residence for Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand after they overthrew the Moors and whereas it’s not as sprawling or spectacular as Seville‘s Actual Alcazar, I feel it’s nonetheless value popping into in case you have a while to spare and if it’s not crowded.
The principle highlights of this alcazar are the intact Roman mosaics excavated from the encircling space which might be on show right here, in addition to its beautiful gardens, so choose a day with good climate to go to. It’s additionally fairly low cost to go to at simply 5 Euros for entry and I feel I spent simply half an hour right here, it’s actually not very massive in any respect, however the gardens are a pleasant respite if you need someplace to chill out after all of the crowds on the Mezquita-Cathedral.
Customer Data: It price simply 5 Euros to enter the Alcazar – purchase your tickets on-line or on the door. Closed on Mondays.
Puente Romano (Roman Bridge)
Initially constructed by the Romans in 1st BC, this was the one bridge throughout the Guadalquivir River in Cordoba for a very long time. This specific model of the bridge was a rebuild by the Arabs within the eighth Century. The Roman Bridge is situated between the Mezquita Cathedral and Alcazar, so good for a stroll in between visiting these spots.
There’s a small museum known as the Torre de la Calahorra on the non-old city finish of the bridge which homes a small museum. I didn’t go inside as a result of the climate was so good, primarily having fun with the view of the river from the bridge.
Free strolling tour with Cordoba Suggestions Excursions
I arrived in Cordoba within the morning and spent most of that point visiting the Mezquita Cathedral, so within the afternoon, I made a decision to take a free strolling tour simply to get a way of what to see within the metropolis. There are many free strolling tour choices accessible, however at that time many of the English tour choices began round 10-11am. Due to my timing, I ended up reserving a tour with Cordoba Suggestions Excursions which had a Free Monumental Tour with a 130pm begin time (Test as a result of timings can change in numerous seasons).
The two-hour strolling tour began on the Almodovar Metropolis Gate and lined the Outdated City space, and was undoubtedly useful in giving some context as to what I used to be seeing. It’s a free tour in that you just select what to pay based mostly on ideas on the finish (I normally give 5-10 Euros), and I all the time advocate a strolling tour as a fast strategy to get an summary of a brand new place rapidly.
My tour information was okay – I’ve been on lots of such excursions earlier than, and usually her English was first rate and she or he did know her stuff.
Centro
A brief distance from Cordoba’s outdated city are extra trendy plazas the place all the excitement is occurring, and a few attention-grabbing sights value trying out as nicely. I walked loads in Cordoba!
Plaza de las Tendillas
That is Cordoba’s major city sq. and really busy with individuals on a regular basis. A lot of the major retail manufacturers and eating places are situated right here. I principally walked via this space however it has an excellent metropolis vibe.
Plaza de la Corredera
One thing about this sq. surrounded by buildings jogged my memory a number of Madrid and is sort of atypical of Andalusian structure – eating places and bars line this plaza and it seems like a kind of hip locations to see and be seen. Numerous meals choices right here in the primary sq. space the place there’s alfresco seating. It’s very near the Templo Romano ruins.
Templo Romano (Roman Temple)
These pillars simply kinda spring out of nowhere, remnants of the town’s early days as a Roman metropolis and belong to a former Roman temple – among the mosaics that had been unearthed right here could be seen within the Alcazar or the Archaeological Museum which I didn’t handle to go to.
Palacio de Viana (Viana Palace)
In case you go to Cordoba in Might, ensure that to time it so you’ll be able to see the Cordoba Patio pageant (Fiesta de los Patios), the place native individuals enhance the internal courtyards of their houses and compete to have the prettiest ones. This pageant was awarded UNESCO Intangible Heritage standing and is a fairly cool strategy to see how the native individuals stay.
Sadly as a result of most of those patios are on non-public property and are solely open to the general public through the pageant in Might. Nonetheless, one superb place to see Cordoba’s stunning patios all year long with out trespassing is on the Viana Palace, a flowery mansion the place there are 12 distinctive patios, every with its personal theme and character.
I took a guided tour at Viana Palace that introduced me to the higher ranges of this home that are in any other case closed to guests – the home has been owned via the years by a number of noblemen and there are many artefacts and outdated fashion furnishings in case you take pleasure in that kind of factor, however no photographs are allowed so I don’t have any photos for you, and the tour was principally in Spanish of which my grasp is rudimentary so I’d say I understood about 40% of what was taking place. See some pix of the upstairs from their web site and contemplate whether or not you suppose it’s value trying out.
The remainder of my time was spent exploring the patios on the bottom degree alone, and I undoubtedly loved how completely different each was. additionally as a result of I had actually good climate so being exterior was good if a tad chilly in March (I used to be a bit of underdressed that day!).
Customer information: The ticket for the patios solely prices 6 Euros, however I bought a mixed ticket that included a guided tour of the higher ranges for 10 Euros, however notice that the tour is simply in Spanish, and no photographs are allowed on the higher ranges. Guide your tickets on the Palacio de Viana website. Closed on Mondays.
Plaza de Capuchinos
Not removed from the Viana Palace is Plaza de Capuchinos, one of many extra attention-grabbing plazas in Cordoba. You’ll need to climb the picturesque Cuesta del Bailío (Bailio Steps) which then leads you to the plaza the place you’ll find Cristo de los Faroles or Christ of the Lamps, a sculpture of Jesus on the cross surrounded by iron lamps. I visited within the afternoon, however it’s undoubtedly alleged to be prettier within the night when the lamps are lit.
What I missed
Even with 2 nights in Cordoba, there are nonetheless a few issues that I missed out on:
- Medina Azahara is Cordoba’s third UNESCO heritage website, the ruins of the Caliphate palace situated a ways exterior the outdated city space. It’s extra of an archaeological website in comparison with different Mudejar structure.
- Cordoba Archaeological Museum appears attention-grabbing for historical past lovers with a number of artefacts on show.
- Jewish Synagogue: I wished to take a look at what is outwardly one of many higher preserved synagogues in Spain, however it was closed once I had some free time sadly. It’s alleged to have some beautiful Mudejar structure
- Palacio de la Merced: I walked by this and whereas it’s principally a authorities constructing, it does have some exhibitions. Fairly constructing not removed from the Viana Palace.
What to eat in Cordoba
I really like consuming tapas within the Andalusian area and had loads of that in Seville and Cadiz, however Cordoba has some fairly attention-grabbing native specialities that they’re recognized for value attempting. You will get a few of these in different cities, however they’re most intently related to Cordoba.
Salmorejo
Salmorejo is a traditional starter and whereas I’m not that massive a fan of Gazpacho, it seems that I actually like Salmorejo which is a thick, chilly tomato soup with bits of boiled egg and ham. It’s savoury, doesn’t have pointless bits of greens in it, and is surprisingly filling.
Flamenquin
Flamenquin is the opposite meat lover possibility and is principally jamon serrano ham wrapped in pork loin and deep fried with breadcrumbs right into a sausage roll of kinds. The right meaty snack meals!
Rabo de Toro (Oxtail Stew)
Rabo de Toro was a convention from the times of bullfighting in Andalusia however quickly grew to become a Cordoba staple. It’s a hearty meal and the oxtail meat is stewed till it’s delicate and slathered with a savoury gravy. Fairly yummy stuff!
One other iconic Cordoba meals to strive: Berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant drizzled with some honey) – I noticed them serve this in an enormous plate so I wasn’t about to do this alone provided that I don’t even like greens!
The place to eat in Cordoba
Casa Pepe de la Juderia
This restaurant within the Jewish Quarter close to the Mezquita-Cathedral is common as it’s listed on the Michelin Information website. I made a decision to go to on a whim and splurge a bit of bit extra on my final Andalusian meal earlier than flying again as much as Barcelona – I spent 33 Euros on my meal. I didn’t make any reservations however managed to get a seat for 1 pax – keep in mind that Spanish individuals are likely to eat late, so I went a bit earlier and maanged to get a desk so long as I left in time for the subsequent reserving.
I appreciated the inside of the restaurant the place they transformed the internal courtyard space into an indoor area with an alfresco really feel that just about felt such as you had been consuming exterior.
As an alternative of consuming extra Salmorejo, I made a decision to strive one thing else known as Mazamorra, yet one more thick chilly soup however this one is created from almonds and bread. Sweeter and fewer savoury than Salmorejo – I personally desire the latter.
For my major I picked one thing known as Arroz Meloso, or creamy rice which isn’t too completely different from a risotto in my view, and this one comes with a bunch of yummy iberico ham items.
Take a look at extra at Casa pepe de la Juderia. Opens for lunch 1-430pm and dinner 830-1130pm.
Taberna La Montillana
This little tavern is situated in between Plaza de las Tendillas and Plaza Corredera and the place I attempted Flamenquin and Salmorejo (see the meals pix above) together with 2 beers. I used to be seated close to the bar space and had a excessive desk to myself.
Take a look at extra at Taberna La Montillana. Open for lunch 1-5pm and dinner 8pm-12am (Mon-Thur) and 1pm-12am (Fri-Solar).
La Siesta Ribera
For lunch sooner or later I made a decision to do the native factor and eat at an al fresco spot close to the river. La Siesta is a reasonably common restaurant amongst a number of others alongside this stretch, and it was good sitting exterior on a sunny day. Fairly good oxtail too!
Take a look at extra at La Siesta Ribera. Open for lunch 1-4pm, dinner 8pm-1am (2am on Fri/Sat).
Bar Natali
This unassuming place was a advice by my Seville tapas tour information whose hometown is Cordoba – it had a vibe that jogged my memory of HDB kopitiams and the individuals working there have been fairly pleasant. I spent an extended day strolling and was fairly glad to tuck into the calamari and my beer. It was my most cost-effective meal in Cordoba costing simply 7 Euros for each gadgets!
See Bar Natali’s location on Google Maps – they’re near La Juderia and the synagogue.
The place to remain in Cordoba
I wished to be close to the outdated city space so I stayed within the Jewish quarter (La Juderia) in a guesthouse known as Hospederia Luis de Gongora. the placement was fairly good – quarter-hour from the prepare station and one other 10 minutes to the Mezquita-Cathedral. I had a single room on the 4th ground (no carry!) which was first rate sufficient, however man that bathe was tiny. Okay for a brief keep however not essentially the most comfy. It price me 66 Euros/night time at this guesthouse.
Take a look at Hospederia Luis de Gongora at reserving.com [affiliate link]
Another choices I used to be contemplating in Cordoba’s Outdated City space [booking.com affiliate links]:
- Cordoba Carpe Diem was additionally a robust contender providing non-public rooms for about the identical worth vary. Additionally very near the Mezquita-Cathedral.
- Lodge Plateros is nearer to the archaeological museum at Plaza Seneca and prices a bit extra but additionally appears fairly first rate
- Pension Internacional appears like a pleasant trendy place, near Lodge Plateros so additionally centrally situated
On the lookout for extra on Andalusia? Take a look at the opposite posts from this journey, or see all my Spain posts.
