This Lesser-known Area of Italy Has Gorgeous Ocean Views, 3 Nationwide Parks, and Rolling Vineyards — and It is Simply Exterior Rome

Some 30 miles away from Rome in central Italy is a area that gives vacationers a world of alternative: Abruzzo. It is full of dazzling medieval cities, rolling vineyards, pictorial stretches of sand on the Adriatic Coast, and alpine peaks set amongst three protected nationwide parks. It is dwelling to 75 p.c of all European animal species, flora, and fauna. In reality, it is so lush that it is usually known as the “inexperienced lung of Europe.”

Abruzzo has 4 provinces: Chieti, Teramo, L’Aquila, and Pescara. I known as Chieti — a hilltop city dotted with historical streets and a shoreline full of sunbathers and fishing huts — dwelling.

Having visited Tuscany’s famed vineyards years in the past, I used to be excited to see what this much less frequented a part of central Italy needed to supply, from its celebrated Montepulciano wines to its charming cities flanked by mountains and the ocean.

It is simple to succeed in Abruzzo from worldwide airports like Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) or Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ). Some connections are additionally provided by means of Abruzzo Airport (PSR). The Adriatic shoreline is related by means of high-speed railway providers; the journey from Bologna Centrale to Pescara Central in Abruzzo takes a little bit over three hours.

I made my technique to Chieti after spending a number of days in bustling Rome, and the very first thing to catch my eye was the shortage of crowds.

The place I Stayed

I checked into Castello di Semivicoli, an 11-room, Seventeenth-century fort surrounded by vineyards and mountain peaks that body the glowing Adriatic Sea. However actually, I used to be right here for the wine — the idyllic location and views had been simply the bonus.

The three-generation Masciarelli identify is well-known within the area because the driving power for placing Abruzzo wines (like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano) on the map, helmed by Gianni Masciarelli. (In 2004, Masciarelli and his spouse Marina Cvetic bought Castello di Semivicoli, protecting its historic particulars intact, together with an olive press, vintage furnishings, and Murano glass chandeliers.)

I spent my afternoons poolside, sipping the primary Masciarelli varietal (the black fruit-driven Villa Gemma) and Cerasuolo, a zippy cherry ahead rosé. Company at Masciarelli may also take cooking classes, a non-public winery tour, and go to former skilled soccer participant turned winemaker Luigi Valori’s natural winery in northern Abruzzo.

What I Ate

The pastoral and coastal location of Abruzzo makes for a various delicacies of seafood, legumes, and meats starting from mutton to pork. Thinly salted mutton skewers, known as arrosticini, are one of many area’s hottest.

Don’t miss a go to to a sagre (native truthful), for an opportunity to attempt ventricina (scorching spicy salami), artichokes, and freshly baked bread.

Abruzzo has produced handmade spaghetti alla chitarra for greater than 200 years. It is usually served with a tomato sauce made with miniature meatballs, known as sugo di pallottine.

A preferred seafood dish is brodetto alla pescarese, which is a stew product of slow-cooked tomatoes, pepperoncini, garlic, and small fish starting from mullet to skate wings.

For candy tooth satiation, two well-known desserts of the area embody sugar-coated almonds (known as confetti), and a comfortable chocolate nougat from L’Aquila, known as torrone nurzia.

What to Do

Outside lovers will discover a number of actions in Abruzzo. Within the medieval mountain hamlet of Castel del Monte sits Gran Sasso Nationwide Park, a biodiverse playground accessible for youngsters, aged folks, and guests with mobility limitations. Marked as a protected space since 1995, the park is full of olive groves, almond bushes, and areas devoted to mountain biking and horseback using. Campo Imperatore plateau, usually known as Abruzzo’s “Little Tibet” due to its comparable Himalayan views, can also be in Gran Sasso and accessible year-round.

Alongside the coast, a 26-mile again path known as Through Verde results in the Trabocchi coast, the place fisherman huts on water stilts line the ocean like wood octopus’ within the distance. A dinner of grilled seafood paired with Vini Valori wines at Trabocco Valle Grotte, suspended over the water throughout a multi-colored sundown, stays one of many biggest moments of my journey.

Additionally alongside the Trabocchi shoreline, Punta Aderci Nature Reserve is a protected enclave of dunes, seashores, and clifftops the place you possibly can bike alongside a path or seize a seat on its pebbly sand.

The Wines of Abruzzo

By no means one to shrink back from a wine tasting or two, I eagerly leaned into studying extra about Abruzzo’s varietals. In spite of everything, its proximity to the ocean and the Apennine Mountains creates a really perfect Mediterranean local weather for rising wine, and there are roughly 250 wineries within the area that produce roughly 1.2 million bottles per 12 months.

I used to be off to a great begin in Chieti, as the realm produces nearly all of wines in Abruzzo, together with the coveted DOC label, which notes the best degree of high quality assurance. Whereas Tuscany is well-known for its Vino Sangiovese grape used to make its Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, in Abruzzo, it’s all in regards to the full-bodied Montepulciano grape. (Montepulciani d’Abruzzo represents roughly 80 p.c of the area’s wine, adopted by Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Pecorino, and Cerasuolo–an Abruzzo rosé.)

At Masciarelli, guests can tour the barrel rooms after which have a curated tasting at Castello di Semivicoli, paired with typical Abbruzzese meals. The area’s dry and natural white wine, Trebbiano, is an efficient complement to the aromatic seafood stews and fried meals of the area.

Fifth-generation Pasetti Vineyard and visitor house is elevated 1,800 ft above sea degree within the village of Pescosansonesco, contained in the Nationwide Park of Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga. It’s a really perfect location to spend a day immersed in nature and a number of other varietals. Their Pecorino is full of aromas of grapefruit and pairs nicely with nearly any seafood dish.